Stihl 2-In-1 Easy File Chainsaw Chain Sharpener .325″
Chainsaws are a pleasure to operate when you respect their power and understand how they cut. For me, there is nothing like plunging a freshly-sharpened chain into the aromatic heartwood of a downed tree on a late fall morning as I put up firewood for the winter. I have gone outside after strong wind storms to find large dead ash trees that had blown down and were blocking my trails. Having a reliable, well-tuned saw and a supply of sharp chains turns a routine chore into an enjoyable experience that you will look forward to.
I have a Stihl MS290 Farm Boss with an 18″ bar that I use for all the tree work on my property. This, or the MS291 that replaced it, is an excellent quality saw for someone with a little bit of land. This saw can cut and buck some decent-size hardwood logs without straining itself if the chain is sharp. It made short work of some fodder trees that I cleared along the edge of where my market garden now stands.
I used to take my chains (you do keep several on hand for yours, right?) to our locally-owned Ace Hardware store to have them sharpened. They only charge $5.99 per chain, they do a great job sharpening them, and they’re usually ready the next day. While I try to give these guys as much of my business as possible, I decided to start sharpening my own chains once I discovered how easy it is with the Stihl 2-in-1 chain sharpener. In addition to saving money and having the satisfaction of doing the job myself, I like the peace of mind that comes with knowing that I won’t be dependent on someone else to keep my saw operating optimally in the event of a natural disaster so that I can take care of my property as well as my neighbors’.
Simply put, you owe it to yourself to have one of these on your workbench if you own a chainsaw. Just like with knives, sharp chains are safer than dull ones because you can let the machine do the work for you instead of forcing it. The Stihl 2-in-1 chain sharpener is perfect for complete sharpening jobs as well as for hitting each tooth a couple of times to “dress” it up. I usually do the latter after every two or three tanks of fuel depending on what I’m cutting.
Being able to sharpen the chain while it’s on the saw is a big timesaver when I have a formidable job ahead of me. I simply set my saw on my workbench and adjust the tension on the chain so that I can turn it by hand. I use a red Sharpie to mark the top of the first tooth I sharpen. This visual cue lets me know when I’m back to where I started sharpening.
Make sure that you’re buying the sharpener that has the files that match your saw’s pitch, which is the distance between the links in the chain. The pitch will be stamped or etched either on the chainsaw itself or on the bar. Apart from the top professional models, most chainsaws use a .325″ or 3/8″ (.375″) pitch.
Most people don’t understand the need to file the rakers (depth gauges) on the chain when they sharpen and therefore, don’t bother with this part. Although the rakers don’t need filing as often as the teeth themselves, neglecting these will cause your saw to cut ineffectively because the depth gauges will actually block the teeth from cutting if they are not taken down periodically to match the wear on the teeth. The best part about this tool is that it files the teeth and the rakers with each stroke. It doesn’t get any easier that that!
There are lines etched on the tool to help you keep the correct angle to the witness marks on the chain as you move the tool across. This is the most important factor in getting a quality result and for maximizing your chain’s service life.